Aperitivo Tour

A Month-Long Dive into Styles, Manufacture, and Cocktails with Views

Friends, Cocktailers, Lovers of Aperitivo -

I spent the past few weeks in Northern Italy, traveling from Venice to Turin by way of Milan, Bologna, Florence, Cinque Terra, and Genoa. I did it for the art - and the aperitivo. I did it for food pairings and vibe. And rooms (bars) with views.

Much of this was highly planned (I make detailed, layered maps of every city I visit). But I also have settled into a get-the-gist-beforehand and then let the city be the guide approach. This way, things still happen that are serendipitous.

It’s a little tricky in über-touristy cities like Venice or Florence, where every good restaurant requires a res and res’s are hard to come by, but I’d rather leave it to fate than have everything nailed-down in advance like a tour. If I’m wandering the back canals in Venice, I want to stop exactly at the spot I’m feeling in the moment (or at least come back the next night). I want to wander. I want things to just happen. The accidents, the transportive moments, the little quirky experiences are why we travel in the first place.

There isn’t room in this newsletter for all the incredible experiences on this sojourn, so here are a few peak aperitivo moments from the trip.

First, let’s clarify that aperitivo is a little muddled as a concept as it gets translated into the US drinks-mediasphere. Cocktail hour is not exactly aperitivo time. Contrary to popular belief, aperitivo is not focused on negronis. You hardly see negronis, and if you do, it will likely be in the hand of a tourist. The harder drinks often come later in the evening (cocktail bars usually aren’t open until after the 5ish - 8ish aperitivo window). For aperitivo, think lighter: spritzes and long drinks and vermouth. This is by no means a hard-and-fast rule, but here is a menu as an example - more lower proof drinks than heavy hitters. The point is easing into things, not hurling into a stupor.

MILAN

Milan is sophisticated, and aperitivo hour comes with bespoke suits and style. There is better people watching to be had away from the touristy center, but the Camparino right smack on the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II with a view of the Duomo is fantastic. Prices are high, tables can be hard to come by, but everything is just right - from cocktails to service to food. Don’t sleep on the best caesar salad in town. If you’re looking for other Milan recs, head to Osteria Fiaschetto for dinner and Vinoir wine bar to hang out.

TURIN

Caffe Torino

Caffe Torino is stuffy and has a whiff of airs about it reminiscent of a high-end boutique in a small town. The service is, well, serviceable but not warm. It gets dinged for these attributes, but they are precisely what make it so, so beloved (to me). Of course, this is how it is at this ancient café. Do you not want your waiter to bear the weight of history? Not a day has passed without this bar feeling superior to all others in 120 years, and thank god for that. Great people-watching, and an amazing array of bites accompany your drink. If you’re looking for a classic of the old stripe, this is the spot for you.

FLORENCE

Quite by accident, we found ourselves in the Giardino Bardini - these gardens are next to the more famous Boboli gardens (you can get a dual ticket). But the top of the Bardini offers a little restaurant and aperitivo station. Say no more. A cocktail and one of the best views in all of Italy. In the more recs department, head to Trattoria Camillo if you can get in. Also, skip the touristy sandwich gulch around All’Antico and instead go to Da’ Vinattieri for lampredotto, the Tuscan tripe sandwich. If you don’t think you’ll like it, imagine the best French dip of your life. The shop has other incredible offerings as well.

GENOA

Gritty Genoa - a city comparatively free from tourists, it feels lost in time in the best way. Bookstores bulging with ancient stacks, old men griping to each other over coffee, little boutiques tucked away in a dark rabbit warren of ancient alleys. I stumbled on a lively bar, unassuming and rich with life’s details. Head to Paul Vineria for a little slice of daily aperitivo heaven - without any hoopla or pageantry. It’s at spots like this, free of expectation, free of anything instagrammable, that you can really ‘get it.’

Is this all research for a book, you ask? Maybe something like that.

Aperitivo Cocktail Recipe

Milano-Torino

I’ve been on a mission to bring back an OG aperitivo cocktail - and the precursor to the negroni - for a while now. The Milano-Torino has it all: a winning taste, a great story, and if you’re into drinks - especially negronis - you simply need to know it. And to know is to love.

The Milano -Torino is the predecessor to the negroni in a flow chart that works something like this:

Milano-Torino —> Americano —> Negroni

Why do I like it so much? It really is divine with an aperitivo spread of cheese, olives, nuts, and chips. Why the name? It’s a blend of Campari from Milan and vermouth from Turin.

One of the greatest versions of the drink is in Turin at the wine bar, Luogo Divino Social. They have a cheater bottle of Americano ready for you - which is exactly how to do it. Allowing the Campari and vermouth to rest together for a few hours will enhance the flavors and make sure your next aperitivo experience is the greatest yet. An ounce of each (or two ounces together if you’ve made a cheater) over ice. Garnish with an orange peel.

WHAT’S COMING UP

• I’m heading to Brazil in June. To São Paulo and Rio.

• July I’m in Medellín, Colombia, working on The New Cocktail Hour edits as well as a new project.

• In August, I’m attending the SIBA (Southern Independent Book Alliance) conference in Atlanta, GA.

• September 23 - Booze & Vinyl Country launch!

• The tour for BVC is shaping up - Looking forward to being in quite a few cities this Fall! More details as they become available.

THANK YOU FOR READING! LET ME KNOW HOW YOUR NEXT APERITIVO GOES.